Since the last update on the workshop a lot of time and effort has gone into the joinery for the door and the gable end doors. I set out to not use the router for any of the halving joints for both the main door and the gable doors. Every halving joint had to be manually marked out and chiseled out. The only time I used the power tools was to create a square cut for the shoulder of each halve.
|End Halve joint
|Mid Halve joint
So as you can see in this illustrations, the main door and gable windows used two main types of halving joints. Either end halving joints or mid halving joints. But the tricky part is doing the top angular end halving joints. I used a bevel angle which allows the user to lock in an angle and scribe it onto the material just like a ruler. Also measuring long to short and the lengths of the halving and depth was critical to the fit.
|Each component separate from its partner
|Glue up of the gable windows, using a board to stop any twists
|Used a scribe and marked depth and length of halving
|Routered a rebate for the glass to sit in.
Next is the window jams. These were also quite complicated. As the jam needed to be rebated and each top end of each vertical component cut at the exact angle of the rafter. Essentially a opening was produced with some structural Pine in the end of the truss work. The window jam acts as the outer frame for the gable window to swing in and out of. Both the window jam and gable windows were made from Design Pine (treated and primed) as they will be exposed to the elements.
|Components for Window jam
|Both window jams, with rebated edge and primed
|The window jam is fixed in place
Just to point out the window jam is always made before the actual window itself. Or in any case whether its a door or window. Once the jam is fixed in place. Measurements are taken for the window or door, allowing for tolerances such as movement in a out of jam.
The gable windows were added to the workshop to allow the hot air to flow out. As we all know hot air rises, this was a double strike as the windows were also there to allow for timber and what not to be stored on the bottom of the truss work. The gable windows had a coat of paint, glass and hinges attached before being hung in the window jam. They really look the part!
|Gable windows will have window arms to stop the wind catching them
|Windows glass, Glazing Silicone and Tasmanian Oak beading.
Next is the door, the door was easier to make. As there weren't any angular halving joints. I wanted the door to be wider than the standard door to allow for machinery and furniture going in and out. The standard for a door is usually 2040mm (Height) x 820mm (Width). I kept the standard height but made this door wider.
|Glue up of the half joints
|Laying out the Pine lining boards, tongue and groove, 12mm
|Pine lining boards were attached and then cut flush with the frame
|Door ready to be hung!
A workshop isn't one without a decent set of stairs. Got some treated Pine that suited the stairs at 245mm x 45mm. Drew a template on some scrap particle board, laying out the height and positioning of tread and string (strings are the sides pictured below)
|Pocket is routered out for tread
|Treads were cut to length and screwed to strings
|Threaded rod is added with nuts and washers for strength
The next update should include, hopefully the last things on the to do list. Such as storm water pipes, weatherboards painted, doorway from workshop to garage, workshop bench. And then the most exciting part - machinery!